View of Lake Hennessey, looking down off Pritchard Hill, site of the Chappellet Winery.
Three years ago, I had the chance to enjoy a bottle of what may be the single greatest Cabernet ever produced in this country, the 1969 Chappellet Cabernet.
At the time, I thought of rating it 103 points out of 100 – to be cheeky and to set the record straight that there are benchmarks… and then there are benchmarks.
The ’69 Chappellet was made by then winemaker Philip Togni, under the Medici-like wallet and watchfulness of Donn and Mollie Chappellet, owners of a 640-acre property, which crowns Pritchard Hill. One-hundred of these acres are planted with exceptional vines.
You can read my earlier story about my 1969 Cabernet experience at http://www.napaman.com/napamancom/2007/05/1969_chappellet.html
The Chappellets have been crafting fine wines, largely Cabernet, from their crest on Pritchard Hill since 1967. Following Bob Mondavi in 1966, the Chappellets were second in the valley, since Prohibition, to get a permit to construct a new winery.
Unlike Bob, though, Donn Chappellet believed the best wines would be made from hillside vineyards. So he bought a hillside to prove himself right.
Cab at 1600-feet elevation. Chappellet’s vines run up to 1,800-feet.
I have long admired the wines from this property (Pritchard Hill is like a gold mine – it’s the mountain home of many fine “first growth” Napa Valley Cabernet producers) and I have never tasted a Chappellet wine I didn’t like. Or met one of the family members I didn’t like, either.
Mollie and Donn have six children. Sons Cyril and Jon-Mark and daughter Carissa are the hands-on winery managers today, having taken over many day-to-day duties from Donn, who is moving on in years.
Despite the generational transition, the winemaking here hasn’t skipped a beat. It’s been in the trusted hands of Phillip Corallo-Titus, who has been winemaker since 1990.
Candice Pannetier, director of guest relations, leads a winery tour, which begins in the cellar….
… and continues in the vineyard.
Some winery tours end with a tasting session in the cellar-temp barrel ageing room… and guests are given fleece-lined parkas to keep warm.
I joined a small group this week and walked the property and tasted current releases. Of the various wines tasted, these were the two knockouts, standouts, worth sharing:
Tasting notes
2008 Chappellet “Signature” Cabernet
Called the “signature” Cab, as it bears the signature of padrone Donn Chappellet.
The 2008 vintage, 77 percent Cab with a smattering of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot, is, in a word: sensational. So focused, so balanced, so gotta-have-some-in-my-cellar impressive.
What’s remarkable about this wine is that it’s about a third of the price of the winery’s top cuvee, but it doesn’t drink like a third of the pleasure. There is a LOT of wine in this wine, which is seamlessly woven. An easy 93-pointer.
2007 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet
How clever of Donn to trademark the brand “Pritchard Hill” in 1967, his second year of operation, forever precluding other mountaintop winemakers from using the geographic designation to describe their wines.
Someday, Pritchard Hill may become a sub-appellation of Napa Valley, but for the moment, it’s a trademarked descriptor, which you will only find on Chappellet bottles.
The 2007 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet is a stunning wine. It has the grace and sophistication of a European wine, yet the power and fresh fruitedness of a new world wonder; I love how Phillip Corallo-Titus has married these attributes.
At $135, versus $48 for the “Signature” Cab, is this wine three times as good? No, but only because the Signature wine is SO good. But for serious wine drinkers, this is a stunning wine, a more structured wine, which they are going to want to age in their cellar. Bravo Phillip, Bravo Chappellet team, 96 points.
Pssst.... Want to visit the winery? If you don't get altitude sickness… and like twisty mountain roads, then have I got a destination for you….!
Call to reserve space for the daily, 7-days-a-week, tasting at 3 pm. It’s $25 per person. Call 800-494-6379.
Or reserve space for the 90-minute tour and tasting, often led by the delightful director of guest relations, Candice Pannetier. The Double T, as I like to call it – Tour & Tasting – is $35 per person.
Monday to Friday, tour and tasting, by reservation only, at 10:30 and 1 pm.
Saturday and Sunday, tour and tasting, by reservation only, at 11 and 1 pm.
Book via email at [email protected], or call 800-494-6379. Tours are limited to 10 guests.
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