The Spottswoode Annual Garden Party – is it that time of year already?

It seems just like yesterday napaman was crowing about the sensational just-released 2004 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, marched out to thirsty guests at the now-annual Spottswoode Release Garden Party.

But that was a year ago.

My how time flies when you’re drinking good wine.

So here we are again, hunting down a parking spot on the back streets of sleepy St. Helena to attend one of the most warm and fuzzy family winery release parties in the valley.

John and Beth Novak Milliken, part of the driving force behind the family winery. Beth is winery president.

Guests mingle on the lawn of Mary Novak’s estate home and belly up to a half-dozen stations around the property where amuses-bouches are served, and where some pretty fantastic wines are poured.

Jennifer Williams, Spottswoode’s winemaker and vineyard manager. Her first vintage here was the not-yet-released 2006 Cabernet, tasted from barrel at the garden party. Hold onto your hats, America – it’s a thrilling wine. Welcome to Spottswoode, Jennifer!

Tasting notes:

2007 Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc
I asked several members of the winery team if they thought I was nuts, proclaiming this quite possibly the best Spottswoode S.B. I’ve ever had. They all seemed to agree, either to make me feel good about my judgment call, or because they really feel the same way.
This is a stunning Sauvignon Blanc, crisp on the attack, lots of flesh in the middle and wonderful citrus-y notes on the finish, especially lemon. This will be terrific with seameats, or served alone on a hot summer’s eve.
In my opinion, the wine is a bit over-priced, as far as Sauvignon Blancs go; they’re asking $32 in a universe in which one can find gorgeous Sauvignon Blancs for $12-18. But as Spottswoode only makes 1,800 cases  -- and they sell everything they make – who can blame the family for asking what the market will obviously bear?
The Sauvignon fruit this year is 40 percent from a mountainside in Sonoma County, and the blend is made more mysterious by the addition of about  five percent Semillon, which comes from Tofanelli’s old vines in Calistoga.
What a wonderful achievement; Jennifer’s second SB at Spottswoode – great work! 92 points.

2005 Spottswoode Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon
Call this their second label, or go-to-label, or not-quite reserve label. The wine has a lovely bright color, almost neon-ic when one’s glass is tilted toward the sun. Gorgeous soft tannins, with broad top notes of toast and vanilla; give this wine a few years  for the flavors to integrate and your face will be happy. 89 points.

1996 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon
They went into the library to pull out something like 18 bottles of this vintage for the garden party. My understanding is that a few of the bottles failed to pass muster. I certainly detected bottle variation among the bottles finally selected and poured.
I have always loved the 1996 Spottswoode Cab; I have one bottle left in my own cellar from my original purchase and loved each of the five finished bottles.
Today, one bottle poured at the party showed a paling color, notes of licorice, dried plum and black currant. I rated this first bottle 91 points.
Then I tasted from a different bottle and was stunned at how fresh and vibrant the wine was – in color and taste. Tons of verve, nerve and finish. Lots of blackcurrant flavors and a real bounce on the palate. 92 points for this bottle.

2002 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon
A fantastic wine at six years of age. I have a full, unopened 6-pack at home that I must remember to start drinking. This is glorious wine; it’s all there – the attack, the middle palate and the long and winding finish. Silken texture. If you own any of this, consider yourself a lucky sod! 92 points.

2005 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon
They’ve upped the ante with this wine, set a new bar for the estate Cab. The fruit is bright, there is a stunning attack of fruit and an even greater finish of fruit. Yet this is not a Califnornia “fruit-bomb.” It has hallmarks of elegance and balance. Over time, this will be a real dinner winner. I will make a note to start drinking my own bottles in four years, by which time, some of the top notes will have blended within the wine, creating a wholly harmonious beverage. 93 points, maybe 94.

2006 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, from a barrel sample
Focused for a wine of this age, spicy, has hallmarks of greatness; will be bottled in November 2008, released to the public in September 2009.
Preliminarily, at the very least, a 91-point wine.

To get on the Spottswoode mailing list, here’s what you need to know:
1902 Madrona Ave.,
St. Helena, California 94574.
Phone 707/963-0134,
or email
[email protected]

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The Sauvignon fruit this year is 40 percent from a mountainside in Sonoma County, and the blend is made more mysterious by the addition of about five percent Semillon, which comes from Tofanelli’s old vines in Calistoga.