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The Spottswoode Annual Garden Party – is it that time of year already?

It seems just like yesterday napaman was crowing about the sensational just-released 2004 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, marched out to thirsty guests at the now-annual Spottswoode Release Garden Party.

But that was a year ago.

My how time flies when you’re drinking good wine.

So here we are again, hunting down a parking spot on the back streets of sleepy St. Helena to attend one of the most warm and fuzzy family winery release parties in the valley.

John and Beth Novak Milliken, part of the driving force behind the family winery. Beth is winery president.

Guests mingle on the lawn of Mary Novak’s estate home and belly up to a half-dozen stations around the property where amuses-bouches are served, and where some pretty fantastic wines are poured.

Jennifer Williams, Spottswoode’s winemaker and vineyard manager. Her first vintage here was the not-yet-released 2006 Cabernet, tasted from barrel at the garden party. Hold onto your hats, America – it’s a thrilling wine. Welcome to Spottswoode, Jennifer!

Tasting notes:

2007 Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc
I asked several members of the winery team if they thought I was nuts, proclaiming this quite possibly the best Spottswoode S.B. I’ve ever had. They all seemed to agree, either to make me feel good about my judgment call, or because they really feel the same way.
This is a stunning Sauvignon Blanc, crisp on the attack, lots of flesh in the middle and wonderful citrus-y notes on the finish, especially lemon. This will be terrific with seameats, or served alone on a hot summer’s eve.
In my opinion, the wine is a bit over-priced, as far as Sauvignon Blancs go; they’re asking $32 in a universe in which one can find gorgeous Sauvignon Blancs for $12-18. But as Spottswoode only makes 1,800 cases  -- and they sell everything they make – who can blame the family for asking what the market will obviously bear?
The Sauvignon fruit this year is 40 percent from a mountainside in Sonoma County, and the blend is made more mysterious by the addition of about  five percent Semillon, which comes from Tofanelli’s old vines in Calistoga.
What a wonderful achievement; Jennifer’s second SB at Spottswoode – great work! 92 points.

2005 Spottswoode Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon
Call this their second label, or go-to-label, or not-quite reserve label. The wine has a lovely bright color, almost neon-ic when one’s glass is tilted toward the sun. Gorgeous soft tannins, with broad top notes of toast and vanilla; give this wine a few years  for the flavors to integrate and your face will be happy. 89 points.

1996 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon
They went into the library to pull out something like 18 bottles of this vintage for the garden party. My understanding is that a few of the bottles failed to pass muster. I certainly detected bottle variation among the bottles finally selected and poured.
I have always loved the 1996 Spottswoode Cab; I have one bottle left in my own cellar from my original purchase and loved each of the five finished bottles.
Today, one bottle poured at the party showed a paling color, notes of licorice, dried plum and black currant. I rated this first bottle 91 points.
Then I tasted from a different bottle and was stunned at how fresh and vibrant the wine was – in color and taste. Tons of verve, nerve and finish. Lots of blackcurrant flavors and a real bounce on the palate. 92 points for this bottle.

2002 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon
A fantastic wine at six years of age. I have a full, unopened 6-pack at home that I must remember to start drinking. This is glorious wine; it’s all there – the attack, the middle palate and the long and winding finish. Silken texture. If you own any of this, consider yourself a lucky sod! 92 points.

2005 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon
They’ve upped the ante with this wine, set a new bar for the estate Cab. The fruit is bright, there is a stunning attack of fruit and an even greater finish of fruit. Yet this is not a Califnornia “fruit-bomb.” It has hallmarks of elegance and balance. Over time, this will be a real dinner winner. I will make a note to start drinking my own bottles in four years, by which time, some of the top notes will have blended within the wine, creating a wholly harmonious beverage. 93 points, maybe 94.

2006 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, from a barrel sample
Focused for a wine of this age, spicy, has hallmarks of greatness; will be bottled in November 2008, released to the public in September 2009.
Preliminarily, at the very least, a 91-point wine.

To get on the Spottswoode mailing list, here’s what you need to know:
1902 Madrona Ave.,
St. Helena, California 94574.
Phone 707/963-0134,
or email
[email protected]

At Groth Winery, when “something bugs you,” it’s a good thing!

A lot of “critters” have shown up on wine labels recently – horses, ducks, fish, moose, bulls, roosters and sheep – used to boost shelf visibility and, hopefully, improve sales. But now real “critters” are actually being invited into the vineyard to improve something more germane -- what’s in the bottle.

These new “critters” include butterflies, ladybugs, and bumblebees, all considered beneficial insects, which prey on natural enemies of the vine.

No one has done a better, or more visible, job at being Noah – bringing these critters onto the Sustainable Vineyard Ark – than Groth Vineyards & Winery, in Oakville. They’ve even gone so afar as to create the valley’s first “Insectary Garden,” an inviting home for desirable insects.

Next month, on four consecutive Fridays, visitors to the winery can have a complimentary tour of Groth’s Insectary Garden, as well as taste some mighty fine sustainable-farmed Oakville wines, also at no charge. (Details below).

 

Suzanne Groth stands in the winery’s Insectary Garden amid colorful flowering shrubs and perennials.

“In our move toward total sustainable farming, we replanted 78 acres of vines, changing their orientation, trellising and ground crop,” says Suzanne Groth, head of public relations for the winery. “And to care for the new vines, we created the Insectary Garden,” she adds.

Here’s what they did: Last year, Groth planted 44 varieties of shrubs, trees, perennials and grasses to attract specific insects, birds and reptiles to increase biodiversity on the property and to control pesky insects biologically, rather than chemically.

In other words, they planted especially tasty stuff to attract good bugs… which would kill off the bad bugs.

The actual idea for the Insectary Garden came from landscape architect Nancy Roche, of Roche + Roche Landscape Architecture in Sonoma.

Groth’s Insectary Garden

In agricultural-speke, this is known as a sustainable farming practice.  Groth planted Achillea Paprika (yarrow), for example, to attract ladybugs, which love snacking on leafhoppers, which are nasty predators of our valley’s best vines.

They planted Ceanothus (California Lilac) to attract lacewings, which flitter about the vineyard noshing on mealy bugs. The mealies (they sound like a group of nasties in a George Lucas film…) wreak havoc on grape vines, spreading mold and viruses.

For the record, sustainable farming is considered one step beyond organic farming, which we hear so much about these days. Sustainable farming practices take into consideration the effects of doing any one thing on the entire surrounding environment. In the case of Napa Valley, it means caring about the health of the entire watershed of the valley.

Buddleia davidii, commonly called the butterfly bush, has sweet nectar that attracts butterflies, hummingbirds and bees, all which help pollinate plants.

At Groth, this has meant replanting estate vines on a north-south axis rather than an east-west axis to profit from winds, which blow north from San Pablo Bay. Air circulation, which is free, natural, and plentiful in Oakville, helps reduce mildew, and mold, diminishing the need for remedial chemicals.

They’ve also encouraged the growth (or should I say “the Groth?”) of cover crops between rows of vines to further establish a healthy insect population to battle bad bugs, as well as conserve soil moisture.

At Groth, seeing weeds between manicured rows of vines is considered a good thing; it’s a smart farming practice and means specific chemicals can be eliminated.

Dennis and Judy Groth, who founded the winery in 1981, are both responsible for spreading this pastoral religion. During his tenure as chairman of the Wine Institute, Dennis established an industry-wide code for sustainable winegrowing practices, which has become a standard for hundreds of wineries across California.

For the release of each vintage of Groth Reserve Cabernet, the winery’s top wine, Suzanne Groth, who is a trained artist, paints a new image; this is her offering for the release of the 2005 Groth Reserve Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon next month.

To showcase the results of sustainable farming, the Groths are inviting visitors to walk among their colorful Insectary Garden and taste estate wines every Friday in September – with tasting fees waived.

Call the winery to register for a free garden tour and wine tasting, offered from 11 am to 2 pm on each Friday in September – the 5th, 12th, 19th and 26th. Reservations are not officially required, but it would be helpful for the winery to know who’s coming and how many might be on hand to sip wines.

I tasted through some of the wines that will be poured on Fridays and had a sneak preview of the winery’s stunning 2005 Reserve Cab, which will officially be released September 20.

Tasting Notes

2007 Groth Sauvignon Blanc
This is the winery’s workhorse, responsible for nearly half of all Groth’s volume. Winemaker Michael Weis insisted a long time ago that this would be a better wine with a touch of Semillon and he was right. This straw-colored, pleasing wine, with 4 percent Semillon, has attractive fruit flavors (largely pear), exhibits bright acidity and has an alluring finish, which makes you want to take another sip. Good as a sipping wine, also ideal with food. In excess of 30,000 cases produced. $18 retail. 90 points

2005 Groth Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon
A rich, charming, compelling wine, reminding me of Franciscan’s Magnificat, another area red blend, which I quite like. About one-quarter Merlot, this wine has a lovely texture, almost silken on the palate. While the wine is plush and plum-y, the Merlot is not overplayed; the Cab shines through with black currant-correctness. Elegant, balanced and fairly priced ($55) – who could ask for anything more? 93 points. 

2005 Groth Reserve Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon
There are only 1,400 cases of this exceptional wine. Look at the color! Regal, the purple of Kingly robes; quick, someone bring me a thrown.
Still young, this wine has a tight nose, but there are hints of plum and black currants, which will evolve over time. Many Asian spice flavors evident – from two years in all-new oak. Yet this is an elegant, balanced textbook achievement. Available to club members and winery visitors at $150/bottle. 93 points.

Groth Vineyards & Winery, 750 Oakville Cross Road, Oakville. Tel: 707-754-4254.

Carol's Second-Most Requested Recipe! Roasted Red Onions

This is one of my all-time-favorite side dishes. Every time I serve it, guests ask for the recipe. Even friends who think they don’t like onions fall in love with this dish.

Serve with meat, fish or poultry. Or even with vegetarian meals. There’s nothing it doesn’t go with. As well, you can serve it hot out of the oven or at room temperature. Or, if you’re lucky enough to have leftovers, put one or two wedges – right out of the fridge -- on a piece of crusty bread that’s been coated with Dijon mustard. You won’t believe how good it is!

Note: I only use 1 tablespoon of oil to make this dish, which serves 6 to 8 people. This is not a typo! Too many recipes call for excessive amounts of oil. I’m crazy about good olive oil, but not when food is
swimming in it!  Too little oil isn’t good either. The answer lies somewhere in the middle and sometimes you have to do a little experimenting to figure out where that midpoint is.

As well, always buy the best oil you can find. If you’re not sure what oils to buy, go to a good specialty store and ask for recommendations. Some stores even permit you to taste the oils they sell. Before long you’ll start to get a sense of what you like and what complements your style of cooking.

6 to 8 large red onions
1 tbsp good-quality olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup (approx.) balsamic vinegar

Peel onions. Trim tops off, but leave root ends intact. Slice onions in half vertically through root. Cut each half into quarters, cutting through root so onion wedges hold together.

Place wedges in large bowl. Add oil and toss gently with hands until all pieces are coated. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Arrange onion wedges in single layer in large shallow baking dish. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar. Seal well with aluminum foil. Place onions in 450F oven for about 40 minutes. Then remove foil and continue roasting until onions are soft and juices have caramelized, about 5 to 10 minutes or longer. Check periodically to make sure onions don’t burn. They should be cooked just until lightly charred around the edges. (If pan liquid evaporates before onions are finished cooking, add a little water to the pan.)

Makes 6 to 8 side-servings.

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Chickpea Soup with Fennel & Pecorino Romano

There are many reasons why I love this dish and why I make it as often as I do. The first, of course, is that it’s delicious. The second is that it’s one of the quickest and easiest dishes in my repertoire. And last, but not least, it’s relatively healthy and very low in fat.

Beyond that, I like serving meatless meals once or twice a week, and this is a very satisfying contender. Although this dish is officially called “soup,” it’s thick and almost stewlike.  And as with most bean soups, I follow it with a mixed green salad and serve with crusty bread. If you
have leftovers, that’s a bonus.

2 large bulbs fennel
2 to 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 onions, chopped
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
Small end piece of Pecorino Romano cheese (about a 1-inch cube) (optional)
2 cans (each 28 oz) whole tomatoes, drained and chopped
4 cans (each 16 oz) chickpeas, rinsed and drained
4 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water
1 tbsp chopped fresh oregano or 2 tsp dried
Salt and freshly ground pepper
6 to 8 thin slices day-old bread (preferably a rustic, country-style bread like pain au levain)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
Finely chopped parsley for garnish
Grated Pecorino Romano for serving

Prepare fennel: Remove and discard stalks. (I sometimes rinse them, trim the ends and munch on the stalks while preparing this dish.) If there are any fronds and they look fresh, finely chop and set aside.

Cut fennel bulbs in half. Then place each half cut-side down on work surface and cut in half again. Remove and discard core from each piece and slice crosswise into 1/2-inch strips. Place in strainer and rinse with cold water. Let drain and set aside.

In heavy soup pot, heat olive oil until hot. Add onions, garlic and parsley and cook, stirring, until onion is tender, about 6 to 8 minutes. If you have a small, older piece of Pecorino Romano in the fridge, this
is a good way to use it. Add a small piece to the pot. Otherwise, use a fresh piece. Add fennel and fronds and continue cooking, stirring often, until fennel is translucent, about 8 to 10 minutes longer.

Add tomatoes, chickpeas, soup stock or water, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for about 40 minutes or longer, up to 1 hour. Turn off heat.

Meanwhile, prepare garlic toasts: Place bread on baking sheet and place in 400F oven, turning once or twice, until bread is toasted. This should take about 10 to 15 minutes but check frequently so bread doesn’t burn; it should be golden brown and crisp. Remove from oven and rub all over with whole cloves of garlic. Set aside until serving time.

To serve: Place a slice of garlic toast in each large shallow soup bowl. Then ladle soup into each bowl. Sprinkle with parsley and a little cheese on top. Pass the remaining cheese around the table.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Wine suggestion: As the origins of this soup are Italian, and most likely Sardinian (if you really want to zero in), I often choose a hearty Italian table red to accompany it. Or, if I want to drink domestic, I’ll select a favorite Sangiovese.
       - Jim White

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Mixed Salad Greens with Blue Cheese

In summer, I grow a variety of salad greens and fill a basket with assorted leaves in the late afternoon, when the temperature starts to cool. But you can also buy superb salad mixes at your local farmers’ market, where there are usually numerous excellent assortments, most of which are organic. As well, many grocery stores have good produce sections and often carry organic salad mixes.

A word of caution: Salad mixes do not have a long shelf life and should be purchased on the day you intend to use them. If the salad greens in the produce section look tired, don’t buy them! Ask the produce
manager if there’s anything fresher in the cooler and see if that is any better. Otherwise, see if there are any whole heads or bunches of greens that look fresh and interesting, and make your own mix. I usually choose from such varieties as frisee, endive, radicchio, arugula and watercress.

Note that I only use 1 tablespoon of oil for this recipe. I like salad that isn’t swimming in heavy dressing. And one of the things I like most about using fresh salad mixes is that they only require small amounts
of oil to coat them.

6 to 8 cups mixed fresh salad greens
1 tbsp flavor-rich extra-virgin olive oil
2 to 3 oz blue cheese (e.g., Stilton, Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Bleu d’Auvergne, Danish)
1 fresh lemon, cut in half
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Find a salad bowl that’s large enough to toss your salad without everything falling out of the bowl. Add greens to bowl. Add oil and toss gently but thoroughly until all the greens are coated. (I like a lightly dressed salad, but if you like more oil, add a bit more.) Once the salad is evenly coated, crumble the cheese into the bowl and toss again. Then add the juice of half the lemon and taste. If you prefer more acid, add more lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Carol's Top-Requested Recipe! Tuscan Beans with Sage & Garlic

Of all the dishes I prepare, this is the single most requested recipe.

And the good news is that it’s a snap to make.

Although you can start with any type of dried white beans, I prefer navy beans. I like the flavor, plus they don’t require any presoaking!

I strongly recommend that you use a very fragrant, flavor-rich olive oil as a good oil adds great flavor to this dish. Serve with meat, fish, poultry or vegetarian dishes.

For convenience, this dish can be made a few hours ahead and kept on the stove until dinnertime. Reheat for a few minutes (add a little water if necessary), stirring often and watching carefully so beans don’t burn.

2 cups dried navy beans, picked over and rinsed
7 cups cold water (preferably filtered)
4 or 5 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp coarse salt
5 or 6 fresh sage leaves
Freshly ground pepper

In a medium-size saucepan, combine beans and water. Bring to boil, reduce heat and when beans start to simmer, add garlic, oil, salt and sage leaves. Continue cooking, uncovered, until beans are tender and most of liquid has evaporated, about 1-1/2 hours, stirring periodically. Beans should be gently simmering the entire time; if liquid dries out before beans are finished cooking, add a little more water as required.

Spoon into serving bowl and season with freshly ground pepper to taste.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Linguine with Tomato Sauce

This is one of my all-time-favorite pasta dishes and it’s shockingly simple to make. You can use spaghetti or any ribbon pasta, but for some reason, I’m partial to linguine. Of course, the tastier and riper the tomatoes, the better the sauce. In winter, I often buy Roma tomatoes when they look good and let them ripen for a few days. Then I make this dish and dream about summer and my vegetable garden.

I usually serve this with a large platter of seasonal vegetables, depending on what looks best in the market.  Boiled green beans, boiled asparagus, roasted beets, sautéed kale or chard are all good side dishes. In winter, I sometimes accompany with roasted acorn squash grazed with butter and sprinkled with a little brown sugar. For nights when I want to keep things especially simple, I accompany with crusty bread and follow with a salad of mixed greens.

About 2-1/2 to 3 lb Roma tomatoes (13 to 15 tomatoes)
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
4 or 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Handful fresh basil leaves, torn or chopped into small pieces
1 lb linguine or spaghetti pasta (use a good, imported brand such as DeCecco)
About 1/4 lb Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated before serving

Peel tomatoes: With a sharp paring knife, cut out the core of each tomato and cut a small “x” in the bottom end. Then immerse tomatoes in boiling water for about 30 to 60 seconds. Drain water and let
tomatoes cool for a minute or so. Skin will peel off easily.

Cut tomatoes in half horizontally and using your fingers, remove seeds. (I usually do this over the sink.) If some remain, that’s fine. Then chop tomatoes finely with a knife and place in a strainer over a
bowl to drain excess juices.

In a medium-size sauté pan, heat olive oil. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant; do not brown. Then add and cook over high heat for a few minutes; tomatoes should be bubbling. Then reduce heat, season with salt and pepper to taste and continue to cook for about 20 minutes or so, stirring from time to time. Stir in basil, cook for another minute, then cover and turn off heat. Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary.

Meanwhile, bring large pot of water to boil. Add salt (about 1 to 2 tbsp for a large pot) and then add pasta. Cook pasta until tender but firm, stirring periodically and checking along the way to make sure you don’t overcook it.

Drain pasta well (if there’s too much water on the pasta, it will dilute the tomato sauce, which you don’t want). Place in large pasta bowl. Add tomato sauce and toss to coat well. Then add a handful of grated Parmigiano cheese and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately and pass around remaining cheese and a pepper grinder.

Makes about 4 servings.

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Fat-Free Potato Salad

No one will believe that this is a fat-free dish. It’s loaded with flavor and tastes like the real thing that is made with mayo.

The secret to making a tasty, non-fat potato salad is to use a high-quality, non-fat yogurt, one that has good acidity and is thickened naturally with healthful bacteria, not commercial thickeners like pectin.

On the West Coast, there are two brands of non-fat yogurt, which I use. Nancy’s Non-Fat Plain Yogurt, made by Springfield Dairy in Eugene, Oregon, is a phenomenal product. I always keep it in the fridge and frequently mix it with fruit for mid-day snacks. I also love Strauss Family Creamery Organic Non-Fat Plain Yogurt, made in Marin County, just north of San Francisco. Both are delicious products and I recommend them highly.

Recently, Trader Joe in northern California anyway, has started to sell its own-branded unflavored, non-fat yogurt, which tastes a lot like the Strauss product, but which costs significantly less. It's also a sensational yogurt for eating on its own, or for replacing mayonnaise in recipes.

This potato salad is a perfect accompaniment to grilled chicken, burgers or picnic sandwiches. It’s best made an hour or two ahead and chilled until serving.

Although this recipe calls for basil, you can easily substitute any fresh herbs of choice, including tarragon, dill, thyme or summer savory.

2 to 2-1/2 lb small new potatoes, boiled in salted water until tender but firm
5 or 6 scallions, finely chopped
1/2 cup (approx.) good-quality non-fat plain yogurt
2 tsp or more Dijon mustard (Maille is my favorite)
Small handful fresh basil leaves, torn or chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Cut potatoes in halves or quarters, depending on their size. (I usually leave the skin on but you can peel if you like.)

Combine potatoes with scallions and yogurt. Toss gently. Add mustard, herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Toss again. Taste and adjust seasoning. Refrigerate for about an hour or two. Then taste and adjust seasoning just before serving.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Sautéed Spinach with Grated Lemon Zest

I love to prepare numerous side dishes for festive dinners and usually determine what those will be when I’m at the market and have a chance to see what looks best. I try to choose side dishes that complement the main dish, complement each other and that don’t all need to be cooked at the last minute. In the best of all possible worlds, I like to prepare a few side dishes that can be made ahead of time and one or two that I can cook just before serving. The trick to these last- minute side dishes is to get all the prep done earlier in the day so that you can do the final steps without getting frazzled!

2 lb fresh spinach
2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
3 or 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Zest of 1 lemon, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Trim off stems and coarse leaves from spinach. Wash spinach in several changes of cold water (I do this in my largest stainless steel mixing bowl) until water is clear. Drain well. If leaves are quite large, cut them in half or coarsely chop. Set aside.

In large sauté pan, heat oil until hot. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for a minute or so. Then add lemon zest and continue stirring until garlic is just starting to turn golden; do not brown.

Add spinach (a handful or two at a time) and cook, stirring, until wilted. Spinach should be evenly coated with oil. Transfer to a serving platter and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Makes about 4 servings.

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Grilled Lamb with Rosemary, Garlic & Balsamic Vinegar

One of the great joys of living in Napa Valley is that many of my favorite herbs grow year round. For much of the year, I can walk out to the garden and harvest a mixed bouquet whenever the mood strikes. Such luxury! Rosemary is especially prolific and some of the small plants I planted when I first moved here 11 years ago are now waist height and have encroached on everything that was formerly in their path.

Jim and I love to grill lamb (I do the prep; he does the grilling), and even though we’ve tried numerous recipes, this is still our favorite. It’s best to start marinating the meat the night before, but if time doesn’t permit, start early on the day you intend to cook so the lamb has a chance to absorb all the
wonderful flavors of the marinade. Then, let meat return to room temperature before you place it on the grill. (As a general rule, it’s best to allow anything destined for the grill to get to room temperature before cooking.)

I like to serve this with roasted small potatoes, roasted red onions, sautéed chard or spinach and one or two briefly boiled or steamed vegetables such as green beans or asparagus.

1 boned and butterflied leg of lamb (about 4 to 5 lb)
Good-quality olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Several sprigs fresh rosemary, finely chopped
5 or 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup (approx.) balsamic vinegar

Rub lamb all over with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Then rub all over with rosemary and garlic and place in large shallow dish for marinating.

Drizzle all over with balsamic vinegar and rub all marinating ingredients into meat with your hand until everything is evenly coated. (Use just enough balsamic vinegar to flavor the meat; there shouldn’t be so much that it pools in the bottom of the marinating dish.) Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 24 hours; turn meat over once or twice while marinating. Remove from fridge a few
hours before cooking

Place lamb on grill over medium-high heat and grill for about 15 to 18 minutes per side or to desired doneness. Let rest about 10 minutes before slicing. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper and serve.

Makes about 6 servings.

Wine suggestion: I like the heartier reds to complement this grilled lamb and what’s
better than "the Big Juicies” -- killer Napa Valley Cabs?
       - Jim White

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Roasted Potatoes with Sage

I always have a few sage plants in the garden as I love the look of sage and I use it in many different dishes. It’s easy to grow and doesn’t require any special soil; just keep it well drained and make sure it gets plenty of sun. There are many varieties of sage, all of which look attractive in the garden (e.g., purple-leaf, pineapple sage, Holt’s mammoth with its extra-large leaves), but my favorite is the
common kitchen or garden sage. It’s the one that has the most intense and true sage flavor.

If time permits, parboil the potatoes in this dish about an hour or two before serving. Then, put them in the oven just before mealtime. Serve immediately, while they’re crisp and hot.

2 to 3 lb small new potatoes, preferably yellow-fleshed or brown-skinned (about 1 to 1-1/2 inches in diameter)
Salt
1 to 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
4 or 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 to 4 tbsp chopped fresh sage
Freshly ground pepper
Sprigs of fresh sage for garnish

Scrub potatoes and place in saucepan. Add cold water to cover and season with salt to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat and cook, partially covered, for about 10 to 15 minutes, until potatoes are nearly (but not
quite) tender. Drain potatoes well. Place in mixing bowl and add olive oil, garlic, sage, and salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Toss well. Let potatoes marinate until about 15 minutes before serving time.

Place potatoes on large baking sheet and place in 500F oven for about 10 to 15 minutes or until potatoes are tender on the inside and crisp and golden on the outside; turn potatoes a few times while cooking so
they don’t burn. Transfer to serving dish and garnish with whole sprigs of sage.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Sautéed Baby Zucchini with Shaved Parmigiano

I must confess that I’ve only recently come to appreciate the charms of summer squash. In the past, I thought zucchini and its cousins were a lackluster group that only assumed the personality of their closest companions. But after growing several varieties in my garden (including the lovely yellow sunburst squash, a French variety of green zucchini, and the pale green ronde de nice), I’ve had an abundance of summer squash to cook and experiment with and have started to understand just why they’re so popular.

In summer, many food stores offer various shapes and sizes of summer squash from which to choose. Whether buying from a store or harvesting from your garden, choose zucchini when it’s about 4 or 5 inches long and the round varieties when they’re about the size of a golf ball.

Serve this delicious summer starter on a large platter to accompany a chilled bottle of dry rosé or pleasing Pinot Grigio. Alternatively, serve on individual plates as a first course with either of the same wines. You can use any variety of summer squash or, even better, a mixture of your favorite types.

2 lb mixed baby summer squash (e.g., zucchini, pattypan, sunburst, ronde de nice)
1 to 2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/3 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 lb(approx.) Parmigiano Reggiano, shaved with a vegetable peeler
Crusty good-quality bread, torn in chunks

Cut squash in a way that best preserves its shape and so that all types will cook in about the same amount of time. I usually cut zucchini lengthwise into halves or quarters, or into 1/4-inch slices, depending on the size. For the round squash, cut in half and then cut each half into 1/4-inch slices. (If any blossoms are still attached, slice into ribbons and add them to the mix.)

In large sauté pan, heat oil until hot. Add garlic and cook, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Add squash and cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes or until tender and golden. Add all but 1 tablespoon of the parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Toss well. Turn off heat.

Spoon squash mixture onto serving plate, leaving room for the cheese. Sprinkle with remaining parsley. Add Parmigiano to the platter and several chunks of bread. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Variation: For a first-course, serve the zucchini mixture on top of grilled sourdough bread with a few shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano on top. Round out each plate with a small salad of lightly dressed greens or a few slices of summer’s best tomatoes lightly drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with
chopped fresh basil.

Carol's Wine-Country Kitchen: Linguine with Pesto & Green Beans

In summer, one of my greatest joys is preparing meals that rely almost entirely on produce from the garden. Of these, many of my favorite menus start with pesto.

For this pesto, I recommend using a mortar and pestle. Although you can also make it in a food processor, the mortar-and-pestle method is easy and it produces the best pesto I’ve ever eaten. I usually pick the basil an hour or so before preparing the pesto. Then I wash and thoroughly dry the leaves, wrap them in an absorbent towel (I especially love the towels made of flour sac material) and chill for 10 or 15 minutes just to keep them cool. (This is especially important if you have a very hot kitchen.)

In our home, Jim is my Number One Pesto Man. He pulverizes the leaves until they’re thick and have a
creamy consistency, which only takes about 5 to 7 minutes! There are as many pesto recipes as there are people who love pesto, but for me, this one is hard to improve on!

Serve with crusty bread, a platter of sliced heirloom tomatoes and a garden salad to follow.

5 to 6 handfuls fresh basil
Coarse salt (kosher or sea salt)
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tbsp pinenuts, lightly toasted
1/4 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
2 to 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb linguine, fettuccine or other ribbon pasta
1/4 lb fresh green beans, ends removed
Freshly ground pepper
Extra Pecorino Romano for passing

To wash basil, place in large bowl of cold water. Remove leaves from stems and place in salad spinner. Spin until dry. Place on tea towel and wrap loosely. Refrigerate for about 5 to 10 minutes or while
preparing the other ingredients.

To make pesto: Place 1 teaspoon of coarse salt and about 6 basil leaves in a mortar and crush with the pestle. Add the garlic and then more basil leaves, a few at a time, pulverizing one batch before adding
the next. Add pinenuts and crush until mixture is smooth. Remove to a mixing bowl and fold in cheese. Add olive oil and mix with a wooden spoon until mixture is thick and has a creamy consistency. Taste and adjust salt and cheese if necessary. Set aside.

In large pot of boiling salted water, cook pasta until tender but firm. About 1 to 2 minutes before pasta is finished cooking, add green beans and let them cook with the pasta. Drain well, reserving about 1 cup of the pasta cooking water, and transfer pasta and beans to large pasta bowl. Add about 1 or 2 teaspoons of the reserved cooking water to the pesto and mix lightly just to “loosen” the pesto a bit.

Add pesto to pasta and mix well, until the pasta is evenly coated (this may take a minute or two). If necessary, add a little water to any little “clumps” of pesto to help loosen them. Taste pasta and add more cheese if desired. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately with a chunk of extra cheese and a hand grater.

Makes 4 servings.

Wine suggestion: Because pesto originates on the Ligurian coast of Italy, I often opt for wines of that, or an adjacent, region. Among whites, Arneis, Gavi or Pinot Grigio make an excellent mate for this plate; among reds, I like a young Dolcetto or Chianti (made from the Sangiovese grape).
If your cellar is heavy on California wines, try pairing with an un-oaked Sauvignon Blanc or bright Pinot Grigio. Forget most Chardonnays; there’s usually too much wood and butter in them to marry properly to pesto. A youthful, not heavily oaked Zin will work, too, though most have too much alcohol for this dish, which requires a lighter wine.
    - Jim White

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Sautéed Swiss Chard with Garlic

Swiss chard is one of my favorite side dishes. A member of the beet family, chard is commonly available in both white and red-ribbed varieties. For gardeners, there’s even a rainbow variety in vibrant shades of yellow, red and green that brightens up any kitchen garden.

This dish is quick and easy to make and you can do most of the preparation ahead of time. In fact, chard is one of those vegetables that tastes great lukewarm or at room temperature, so you can easily prepare the whole dish earlier in the day if desired. Or, if you prefer to serve it hot, do everything but the final cooking ahead of time and then, just before dinner, sauté in oil until hot.

2 lb Swiss chard
Salt
2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Freshly ground pepper

Wash chard and pat dry. Using a knife, separate leaves from the central rib or stem by cutting along each side of the rib. Cut ribs into 1-inch lengths. Slice leaves into 2-inch ribbons. (If chard is very young and ribs are thin and tender, you can omit this step. Simply slice the entire leaf into ribbons or leave whole if small.)

Fill a medium-sized pot with about 2 inches of water. Bring to boil and season with about 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Add chard ribs and cook, partially covered, until tender but quite firm. Then add leaves, tossing well to coat all leaves with the salted water, and continue cooking, stirring often, until stems and leaves are tender. Drain well.

In large sauté pan, heat olive oil until hot. Add garlic and sauté for about a minute until garlic starts to color. Add chard and cook, stirring often, for about 2  or 3 minutes until hot and coated with oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Makes about 4 servings.

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Summer Tomato & Bread Soup with Basil

Make this delicious, rich-flavored soup when you have an excess of ripe tomatoes on hand. If you’re lucky enough to have prolific tomato plants in the garden, this is one of the best things you can do with an abundant harvest. You can make this from all the same variety of tomatoes, such as Roma or Early Girl, or use anything and everything you have on hand.
 
Although you can serve this thick soup as a starter for any dinner, it also makes a great main dish for lunch or hot summer nights when you don’t feel like eating anything heavy. Follow with a salad of mixed greens.
 
About 8 pounds ripe tomatoes (one variety or a mixture)
4 or 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 to 3 cups boiling water
Good-sized piece Parmigiano Reggiano
1 to 2 handfuls fresh basil leaves, small leaves left whole, large leaves torn or coarsely chopped
10 to 12 torn chunks of good-quality, country-style bread (preferably day-old with crust on), such as pain au levain or sourdough (each chunk about the size of a tomato)
 
Peel tomatoes: With a sharp paring knife, cut out the core of each tomato and cut a small “x” in the bottom end. Then immerse tomatoes in boiling water for about 30 to 60 seconds. Drain water and let tomatoes cool for a minute or so. Skin will peel off easily.
 
Cut tomatoes in half horizontally and using your fingers, remove seeds. (I usually do this over the sink.) If some remain, that’s fine. As you seed the tomatoes, place the seeded tomato halves in a strainer over a bowl or plate to catch the juices. (If tomatoes are excessively large, such as big beefsteak tomatoes, you can cut them in quarters; otherwise, there’s no need to chop tomatoes once they’ve been peeled and seeded.)
 
In a large deep sauté pan or heavy soup pot, heat olive oil. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant; do not brown. Then add tomatoes and cook over medium- high heat, stirring, until boiling. Reduce heat and gently simmer for about 20 to 30 minutes, until mixture becomes quite thick. Add boiling water and season with salt and pepper to taste.
 
Add bread chunks and basil and stir to mix well. Continue simmering just until mixture is heated through. Turn off heat and let soup sit on burner for about an hour or more until mealtime.
 
Just before serving, reheat over low heat just until heated through. Taste and adjust seasoning. Spoon into serving bowls and sprinkle each portion with a little grated Parmigiano. In addition, I usually offer a wedge of cheese and a grater at the table.
 
Makes 4 main-course or 8 first-course servings. 
 

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Garden Vegetable & Bean Soup with Pistou

This version of the classic French soupe au pistou is one of my all-time favorite summer dishes. “Pistou” is the French version of the Italian pesto. In this dish, it’s used as a condiment and stirred into the soup just before you take that first spoonful.

The pistou recipe below is made in the food processor and only takes a minute or two to make. The texture is more “finely chopped” than a paste. I like it because it has so little oil, yet the flavor is outstanding and it works perfectly with this dish. You can, of course, substitute any pesto or pistou recipe that you like. Just be sure to make it shortly before serving as pesto gets “tired” when it sits around.

I always serve this as a main dish and ladle it into over-sized pasta bowls. Occasionally I serve fresh corn on the cob as a starter or follow with a salad of mixed greens – or both. For dessert, nothing could be better than a fresh fruit tart. A perfect summer dinner!

2 to 3 tbsp good-quality olive oil
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 onions, chopped
3/4 lb fresh green beans, trimmed and cut in
2-inch lengths
3 to 4 cups fresh shell beans, such as cranberry, fava, flageolet or lima beans (Note: If you can’t find fresh beans, substitute slightly undercooked dried beans such as lima, garbanzo or cannellini)
6 medium-sized new potatoes, peeled and cut in 1-inch cubes
4 to 5 lb ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
4 cups (approx.) chicken or vegetable stock, or water
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 to 3 tbsp chopped fresh thyme
1 to 2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano
Large piece Parmigiano Reggiano and/or Pecorino Romano cheese

Pistou:
4 or 5 cloves garlic, parboiled for about 30 seconds and coarsely chopped (parboiling takes the sharpness out since the garlic will be eaten raw)
4 cups (approx.) fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
1 to 2 tbsp. good-quality olive oil
1 tsp salt
1/3 cup (approx.) freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

In large, heavy-bottomed soup pot, heat oil. Add garlic and onions and cook, stirring, for a few minutes until onions are translucent. Add green beans, shell beans and potatoes and cook, stirring often, about 3 or 4 minutes, until well-coated and heated through.

Stir in tomatoes and chicken stock. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer gently. Add about a teaspoon of salt, freshly ground pepper to taste, fresh thyme and oregano. Let cook for about 30 to 40 minutes or until potatoes are beans are tender. Taste and adjust seasoning. Turn off heat.

To make pistou: Place garlic in food processor. Process for a few seconds with the on-off switch just until evenly chopped. Add basil, a little at a time, and process with on-off switch just until finely chopped. Do not over-process. Add olive oil and salt and process for just a second or two until mixed in. Transfer to bowl and stir in cheese. Taste and adjust salt and cheese quantities if necessary.

To serve, ladle soup into individual bowls. Add a thumb-sized dollop of pistou to each portion. Have your guests blend the pistou into the soup just before eating. As well, pass a wedge of Parmigiano and/or Pecorino Romano cheese around the table with a hand grater.

Makes about 6 servings.

Wine accompaniment: Given the geographic origin of this dish, I am inclined to pull a chilled, snappy rosé from the cellar when Carol serves this in the warmer months. In winter months, I am inclined to pull a rustic French country wine, often a Cotes-du-Rhone, or Gigondas, if she surprises me
with this dish.

In the absence of these wines on hand, you can always serve a Californian Sangiovese or well-aerated Californian Syrah. Both work well with the cheese and natural acidity of the dish.

If you prefer serving a white wine with dinner, chose one with minimum oak as woody tannins tend to fight the acid in tomatoes, rather than complement them.
    – Jim White

Carol gets the goods: Cindy Pawlcyn’s Campfire Pie

One of Napa Valley’s culinary giants, Cindy Pawlcyn has been cooking delectable American fare with worldly sophistication since she opened Mustards Grill in Yountville 25 years ago.

Over the last few years, Cindy has opened two other destination restaurants in the valley, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen and Go Fish, both located in sleepy St. Helena.

When I was actively seeking chef recipes to answer visitors' culinary requests, this one dessert of Cindy’s kept getting repeated requests.

This dessert is, essentially, a chocolate-marshmallow pie with an Oreo-cookie crust. And although it’s reminiscent of desserts many of us enjoyed as kids, it’s infinitely more sophisticated and ridiculously
delicious!

Be sure to read through the recipe once or twice before tackling it. Timing is of essence: When layering the two fillings, it’s important to work as quickly as possible. If the Marshmallow Fluff is overwhipped,
or held too long, the gelatin will begin to set and the texture will become grainy.
As well, if you want to simplify, Cindy suggests substituting a commercial toffee candy bar of your choice for the Almond Ding and a commercial chocolate fudge sauce of your choice for the Bitter Chocolate Sauce.

Crust:
2 cups Oreo cookie crumbs (may be made in a food processor or by placing the cookies
in a bag and crushing them with a rolling pin)
4 tbsp melted unsalted butter

Chocolate-Almond Filling:
1 cup Bitter Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows), warmed, or chocolate fudge sauce of your choice, homemade or store-bought, warmed
2 cups broken pieces of Oreo cookies
1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1/2 cup Almond Ding (recipe follows) or chopped toffee candy bar of your choice

Marshmallow Fluff Filling:
1 envelope gelatin
2 tbsp cold water
2/3 cup egg whites
1/8 tsp cream of tartar
Pinch salt
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tbsp light corn syrup
1/4 cup water
1-1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract

Crust: Combine crushed cookies with melted butter. Press along bottom and up sides of 10-inch pie tin to form crust. Place in freezer for about 5 minutes to set.

Chocolate-Almond Filling: Spread 1/3 of warmed chocolate sauce over entire pie crust. Place Oreo pieces, chocolate chips and Almond Ding in separate bowls. Keep handy but set aside for the moment.

Marshmallow Fluff Filling: In small saucepan, sprinkle gelatin over 2 tablespoons of cold water and let soften for about 5 minutes. Gently warm over medium-low heat until gelatin is dissolved. Turn off heat.

Place egg whites, cream of tartar and salt in kitchen mixer with whip attachment or in mixing bowl with electric beater. Do not whip yet.

In a medium saucepan, combine sugar, corn syrup and 1/4 cup of water. Bring to boil. Using candy thermometer, cook syrup until it reaches 230F on a candy thermometer. At this point, start whipping egg whites, cream of tartar and salt at high speed, while continuing to cook sugar mixture until it reaches 240F. When sugar mixture reaches 240F, add in thin stream to egg whites and continue beating until all of the syrup is incorporated. Add gelatin and vanilla and continue beating for 1 minute longer.

Assembly: Working quickly so gelatin doesn’t set before you finish assembling pie, spread one-third of Marshmallow Fluff over pie crust. Then sprinkle with half the Oreo cookie pieces, half the chocolate chips and half the Almond Ding (below). Drizzle half of the remaining Chocolate Sauce on top. Spread with another third of the Marshmallow Fluff and sprinkle with remaining cookie pieces, chocolate chips and Almond Ding. Drizzle with remaining chocolate sauce. Top with remaining Marshmallow Fluff and, using metal spatula, shape top with dips and swirls. Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.

To serve: Cut the chilled pie into pieces and place each slice on an ovenproof plate. Place in a 400F oven for 5 minutes or until golden brown. Or, for a little extra drama, use a kitchen torch to brown the top and sides. But exercise caution as the pie is very flammable and will burn just like a marshmallow being toasted over an open fire. Serve immediately.

Makes one 10-inch pie.

Almond Ding:
1 cup whole blanched almonds
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1/4 tsp salt

In small saucepan or sauté pan, combine almonds, sugar, butter and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until almonds are toasted and caramel is light brown
Makes about 1 cup.

Bitter Chocolate Sauce:
12 oz unsweetened chocolate
4 oz semisweet chocolate
1/4 cup corn syrup
4 oz unsalted butter
1-1/2 cups heavy cream

Combine ingredients in heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat over low heat or in top of double boiler over simmering water until mixture is smooth and blended. Remove from heat.
Makes about 2-1/2 cups.

Carol's Wine-country Kitchen: Braised Beef Brisket

There are as many recipes for beef brisket as there are cooks who make it, but this is one of my favorites. I usually start preparing this dish about 3 to 5 days ahead of the time I plan on serving it. Get your  brisket from a good meat market. Some butchers always have briskets available, others get them sporadically and you may need to special order your brisket.

Serve with braised leeks or roasted red onions, roasted or mashed potatoes and sautéed greens such as chard or cavalo nero. And be sure to make a little more than you think you’ll need. Everyone loves
leftover brisket.

1 beef brisket, about 6 or 7 pounds
Coarse salt (such as kosher salt or coarse sea salt)
1 tbsp good quality olive oil
1 yellow onion, cut in 6 or 8 wedges
2 carrots, peeled and chopped in 1-inch chunks
2 stalks celery, chopped in 1-inch chunks
2 leeks, halved and chopped in 1-inch slices
5 or 6 cloves garlic, left whole and unpeeled
1 bay leaf
4 cups (approx.) beef stock, heated until hot
1 bottle dry red wine, such as a peppery Cotes-du-Rhone,
simmered until reduced by half
1 can (about 28 oz) whole tomatoes, drained and coarsely
chopped
Coarsely ground pepper

Wipe beef with damp cloth and pat dry. Using a sharp knife (a long slender knife, such as a slicing knife, works well; be careful not to cut yourself), trim off excess fat. Then wipe the brisket again with a damp cloth and pat dry. Sprinkle generously with coarse salt all over and  place in a shallow porcelain or glass casserole dish and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight or for 2 to 3 days, turning the brisket every 12 hours or so.

About a day or two before you plan on serving the brisket, remove from casserole dish and place on clean surface (a stainless-steel baking sheet works well) and let get to room temperature.

In large heavy braising dish or soup or stew pot that can comfortably accommodate the brisket, heat about 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add brisket and cook until browned all over; this can take about 5 or 6
minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.

Drain off excess fat from pan, leaving a thin film. Add onion, carrots, celery, leeks, garlic and bay leaf to pan. Then pour in beef stock and red wine and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat until liquid is gently simmering. Stir in tomatoes and season with coarsely ground pepper. Let simmer for about 5 minutes and taste stock. Add a little salt only if it needs it.

Add brisket to pan, cover and cook for about 3 to 4 hours or until tender, turning halfway through. Check brisket regularly to make sure the liquid is not bubbling too hard. Liquid should come slightly more than halfway up sides of brisket; meat should not be swimming in liquid.

When brisket is done, turn off heat and let cool. Then remove brisket from braising liquid and wrap well in foil. Strain liquid and refrigerate. Remove any fat that congeals at the top.

Several hours before serving, heat braising liquid in large pan. Add brisket to pan, turn once or twice to moisten meat all over, and turn off heat. Let meat sit in pan juices until shortly before serving time.
Then turn heat to medium-low and heat until meat is warmed through. Just before serving, slice brisket into 1/2-inch slices and arrange on platter. Spoon a little of the braising liquid on top and place the rest in a bowl with a spoon for passing.

Makes about 6 servings.

Wine suggestion: There’s something in brisket that brings out the Cabernet sauvage in me. I often turn to a younger California Cab to complement the meaty, upfront flavors of this dish. Though often times, we pull a 4-to-8-year-old Chateauneuf-du-Pape from the cellar to complement this brisket, one of our family’s all-time “cuisine carolaise” favorites.
– Jim White

It’s not Gaudí, and it’s not Gaudy – it’s Quixote!

I’ve now visited Napa Valley’s most original and expressive architectural wonder twice and urge visitors to put Quixote Winery on their Must Do list. Certainly if you love architecture as much as you love wine.

This one-of-a-kind winery is owned by Carl Doumani, formerly of Stags’ Leap Winery fame. Exactly 20 years ago, Doumani hired Viennese hippie-artist-turned-designer Friedensreich Hundertwasser to design the whimsical facade and inner office spaces of the winery, which only opened to the public for the first time last year; the result is sort of Gaudí on codeine. Nothing is quite as you might expect it to be. (The Gaudí reference is to Antonio Gaudí, the Catalan architect of the Modernist, or Art Nouveau, style, whose work is a national treasure in Spain.)

Hundertwasser’s buildings are all a bit off-kilter, like what the might find if you took the Blue Pill offered Neo (Keanu Reeves) in the Matrix, or if you shot down the wrong rabbit hole in Alice’s Wonderland. In short, the architecture here is, in a word,  “bizarrentine.” Visiting Quixote is a bit like walking into someone else’s dream sequence and not having the appropriate DNA to decode what you’re seeing.

The winery’s front door.

"There are no straight lines in nature so why should there be in architecture?" asked the aging, now deceased, Hundertwasser. As such, Hundertwasser’s buildings in Europe and Asia, and now this one, his only structure in America, have curvy lines, uneven floors, drooping ceilings and brightly colored columns made of intentionally shattered mosaics.

But wait, there’s more: trees and shrubs, rooted in 30-inches of topsoil, grow out of the top of the winery, resembling a bad ‘do on a windy day. The kind of thing you might expect to find in a Dr. Seuss story.

“Quixote is a reflection of Carl (Doumani), who is a contrarian in just about everything – except for making wine, which he takes seriously,” says Lew Price, the winery’s general manager.

To my thinking, Doumani is a contrarian even about making wine; he has taken some of America’s best Cabernet Sauvignon-producing acres and planted them with his personal favorite grape, Petite Sirah.

Winery owner Carl Doumani resembles Harlan Saunders of Kentucky Fried Chicken fame.

Doumani maintains that the tannins and fruit of Petite Sirah are far more food-friendly than Cabernet and if that’s the grape he likes, well then, dammit, that’s the grape he’s gonna grow.

Which explains why Quixote is moving to a point at which three-quarters of the property will be planted with Petite Sirah. This fruit goes into two different labels produced at the winery – Quixote, basically the reserve wine, and Panza, a lesser (but not much “lesser”) label.

To get an idea of where the winery is: Quixote is east off the Silverado Trail in the Stags Leap District, sandwiched between Shafer and Stag's Leap Winery. Talk about location, location, location.

Writer Chris Colin nailed the description and significance of Quixote in his New York Times article when the winery opened in February 2007:  “Another place to swirl a glass in Northern California would scarcely be news, but this is not just another place. Tucked up in the golden hills, away from the stately villas and incongruously ornate mansions, sits what might seem the creation of a beautifully demented child.”

Hundertwasser was adamant that “German gold leaf – and no other kind” be applied to the single minaret he added to the winery.

Demented child, indeed. Or maybe enfant terrible might be more appropriate. Mr. “Hundred Waters” (Hundertwasser) added many original, out-of-context flourishes, among them a gold minaret, which was not of Russian, or Turkish, origin, but which was his own design.

Inside, all the interior office walls are curvy, with no right angles. No two doors are alike, no two windows the same.

Winery general manager Lew Price leads property tours; he appears here with visitors in Carl Doumani's large, curvy-walled office.

What did this winery cost to build? Doumani has never revealed the actual sum, but says, “Whatever a winery costs – double it.”

Even the wine is a bit maverick here. Screw caps only, and whacko, slightly off-center, colorful labels. That kind of thing.

Wine Distinctions:

The label of the top-tier wine, Quixote, was designed by Hundertwasser himself. As you might expect, it is an unorthodox label, requiring 17 different printing steps.

Wine bearing the Quixote label is made only with estate fruit, it is 100 percent varietal (either Cabernet or Petite Sirah), and is aged only in French oak.

The “second label” of the winery, but not much of a lesser wine; it’s all estate fruit but is a blended wine.

Wine under the Panza label is also always estate fruit, but is a blended wine (Cab + Merlot, or Petite Sirah + Petit Verdot). Panza is aged only in American oak.

The winery, with 27 acres planted, produces 3,500 cases of wine annually.

Disclaimer: The grape to which I refer in this story – Petite Sirah – is NOT the same as the Syrah grape. When vines were brought to California in the 1800s, ag-men thought they were transporting Syrah – and, in fact, some wine pioneers did. But others mislabeled their rootstock and brought – and planted – what we now understand is Petite Sirah, which is, in fact, the Durif grape from France.

Durif is itself a hybrid grape – part Syrah (hence some of the colors and flavors of the offspring) and part Peloursin.

To make matters more complicated: Most Americans spell Petite Sirah with an “i” but given Doumani’s contrarian behavior, he spells it with a “y,” which is why his bottles claim to be filled with “Petite Syrah.”

You got all that? (You can relax: this material is NOT on the napaman.com final exam.)

Wine tasting notes

Afternoon tasting session for visitors at the winery.

2004 Panza Claret
A blend of 80 percent Cab, 20 percent Merlot. A perfect choice for a Tuesday night pizza, Lew Price likes to say about this $40 wine. Medium pale red, spiced with cloves and red juicy fruit. 89 points.

2003 Quixote Cabernet
Aged in French oak 14-17 months, this splendid wine, $60, has a lovely balance of fruit and tannin. Soft at the core, it has a beautiful long, supple finish, suggestive of licorice, tar and briar. A thoroughly food-friendly wine. 91 points.

2002 Panza Petite Syrah
They may not know how to spell Sirah at this winery, but they sure as hell know how to make it! I LOVE this wine, redolent of vanilla, blue and purple fruits. This P. Syrah, $60, is tempered with a touch (5 percent) of Petit Verdot. The wine has a glorious texture, is soft, chewy, and really lovely. 92 points.

2004 Quixote Petite Syrah
Dark color, dark fruit, this elegant $60 wine has gorgeous balance from start to finish.  The middle palate has some soft notes, but the crescendo is focused and long. Hard to imagine this wine was aged in American oak because it has none of the heavy-handed hallmarks, which so many local winemakers impart to their wines using American oak. The stuff of which dreams are made. 93 points.

6126 Silverado Trail, in the Stags Leap District, Napa Valley. Tel: 707-944-2659.
Monday through Thursday, $25 per person for tour and tasting offered at 10 am, 12.30 pm and 2.30 pm. All visits by appointment only.
Friday, Sat. and Sun., only tastings are offered at the same times as tours/tastings above.
$20 per person for tasting-only, refundable if you buy wine.
Tasting sessions last about 45 minutes. Tasting-only visits are by appointment only.