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Recent Wine Pleasures

  • 1998 Domaine de Pegau
    Good friends Barry and Lea Stern, brought this perfect, perfectly aged, 11-year-old Chateauneuf du Pape to our home to complement a roast chicken dinner. I know that it is early in the year -- only March -- and crazy to say, but this is likely the Wine of the Year. Already. I can't think of a wine that has brought so much pleasure to the dining table in half-a-dozen years. A complete, compelling beverage, filled with fruit, earth, complexity and elegance. A truly remarkable wine. At its peak. Not one day too young, not one day too old, on either side of Perfection. 100 points.
  • 2001 Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf du Pape
    The only wine in my life of which I have drunk an entire case and rated every single bottle of the case a near-perfect wine was the 1990 Vieux Donjon. I LOVED THAT CASE. I was apparently justified in my thinking about the 1990 Vieux Donjon; in a recent issue of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, he quoted sommelier Doug Mohr of Vidalia restaurant, in Washington D.C., who marveled that “the greatest wine he had ever tasted was the 1990 Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape.” Gentlemen of the jury, I rest my case. For dinner this week, to complement Carol’s perfectly prepared pappardelle with veal ragout (a variation of a Mario Batali recipe, only she did it better!), I opened the 2001 Vieux Donjon, which offered a near-duplicate experience of the 1990 vintage. Here was a wine of exceptional length, extraordinary quality. This is a perfect wine, a brilliant wine, elegant, rich, balanced. A 100-pointer. There was nothing missing, no flaws, only gemstone brilliance, bright mature fruit, terroir, minerality, and a finish that Burgundian producers would kill to have. The 2001 Vieux Donjon is long gone from retailer shelves, but look for the 2005 and 2006 vintages, which are helluva good. This is a wine that will improve with age; I like to drink my CDPs (Chateauneufs-du-Pape) with not less than seven or eight years on them.
  • 1997 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
    I have long respected Ed Sbragia’s work as wine director at Beringer and thought that his best-ever achievement (of many brilliant achievements) was his 2001 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet. But the 1997 vintage, which we opened this week for out-of-town visitors from Canada and England, was, to my mind, perhaps the single most compelling wine of Ed’s that I have ever tasted; it is rich, rich, rich (did I forget to say rich?) in complexity, flavor, and texture. To be blunt: it is a textbook-perfect wine at this age and stage of evolution. You may have read reports in Wine Spectator that the 1997 Napa Valley Cabs are beyond their prime, dried up, finished, kaput. Forget that nonsense. I have opened more than a dozen different 1997 Napa Valley Cabs this year from many different producers and they have been spectacular. In essence, don’t believe what you read, unless, of course, you read it here. But not a one of the dozen or so 1997 Napa Valley Cabs, which we opened this year, stroked my palate the way Ed’s 1997 Beringer Private Reserve Cab did. A 100-pointer any way you look at it.
  • 2006 Aterberry Maresh Pinot Noir, White Rose Vineyard
    I could write a sonnet, a book, an encyclopedia about my love for this extravagant, balanced, elegant, mature, brilliant Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley in Oregon. I learned about this wine at The Tasting Room, in Carleton, OR, during a May visit. I have opened many bottles in my home and every one gets a forehead-slapping, “I can’t believe how good this wine is” remark from Napa Valley winemakers, visitors, friends, and knowledgeable sommeliers for whom I pour it. 96-98 points. Available at The Tasting Room, Carleton, OR, at 503-852-6733. Or from the winery. Speak with talented winemaker Jim Arterberry Maresh at 503-434-7689.
  • 1990 Ridge Montebello Mataro
    Brought to dinner at one of my favorite Napa Valley restaurants, Bistro Don Giovanni, by one of my favorite wine-sharing friends, was this stunning, ethereal, syrupy rich wine, made almost exclusively from the Mataro (Mourvedre) grape. Call it the existential libation: "How do they get an 18-year-old wine to taste like a 3-year-old wine?" The wines from Paul Draper at Ridge continue to confound; even at 15... 20... 25 years... they are young, young, even younger. Is there a Ridge genie who goes around topping up older bottles with youthful juice while we sleep? How the hell does Draper do it?? A fabulous wine, screeching of fresh, youthful cherries, ambitious young fruit -- and yet the wine in the bottle is 18 years old! Easily a 97-point wine. Thanks for bringing it to dinner, Homer!
  • 1959 Jaboulet Cote Rotie, Les Jumelles
    Took this rare, 48-year-old wine to Redd restaurant, in Yountville, and experienced no disappointments as you might anticipate them from a wine of this age -- still sealed with the original cork. The wine, purchased from Garagiste, in Seattle, a year ago, was bright garnet in color with virtually no fading and no paleness at the rim. On the nose, the wine showed signs of well ridden saddle leather. We chose not to decant and after about a half-hour, the wine went into a phase of aromas which included a typical Syrah-ness. On the palate, the wine exhibited Burgundy characteristics, reminding me very much of a 64 Vosne Romanee. Toward the end of the meal (awesome braised lamb snippets with housemade pappardelle), the Syrah showed elements of black cherry and licorice that were not earlier noted. An inspiring wine, making those at the table think back to where each of us was in 1959 when the fruit for this bottle was harvested. 93 points. And worth every Garagiste penny.
  • 1997 Robert Mondavi Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon
    Deep, dark and delicious, exhibiting rich, ripe black fruit flavors. 10-years-old and at its prime. Surprisingly syrupy, with a velvet mouthfeel. A 97-point wine any way you look at it.
  • 2004 Olabisi, Suisun Valley Syrah
    A powerful wine from Ted Osborne, 100 percent Syrah. Rich aromas of earth and dark ripe fruit lift from the glass. There is deep extraction, lots of spice and dark cherry in the middle palate, and great depth of flavor on the finish. A serious Syrah, but it doesn’t cost like one - $30 retail. They ran through a case quickly at Gary Danko in SF. 91 points.
  • 2003 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon
    Served at dinner at a friend's home with a series of other Cabs, this was the wine that stood out for the evening. Gorgeous mouthfeel, almost silken; lush fruit, supple texture and a pleasing finish. 92 pts.

Books that I have enjoyed

  • Steve Toltz: A Fraction of the Whole
    A wonderful, fun contemporary romp through the eyes of a wholly (nothing fractionated here!) dysfunctional Australian family. Steve Toltz, for whom this is a debut novel, had me laughing out loud to myself many times (the first sign of a GREAT read, or the early warning sign of serious mental instability to follow, take your pick). Imagine: you pour into a blender the novels of Kurt Vonnegut (Cat’s Cradle, et al), Tom Robbins (Even Cowgirls… Frog Pajamas, etc.) Evelyn Waugh (Black Mischief), John Irving (take your pick…) , Jonathan Safran Foer (Everything is Illuminated) , Voltaire (Candide) and pulse on High for 1 minute; remove cover, season with a bit of Malraux (Man’s Fate) and perhaps some H.L. Mencken (any of his backhanded witticisms) and voila! – you have Steve Toltz and A Fraction of the Whole! Ingest slowly to make the flavors last. I haven’t had as much fun reading a book since the early days of Vonnegut. Even though the book is 530 pages, I never raced through sections and, instead, found myself savoring every word. I didn’t want this book to end from Page 1. The plot twists and turns unexpectedly and the reader will never guess what’s coming up because Toltz has an inventive spirit, creating characters when he needs them to move the story along. (*****)
  • Chandler Burr: The Perfect Scent
    Only the New York Times could dream up – or justify – having a writer who specializes in perfume – a scent columnist! I love Chandler Burr’s writing, especially his evocative, florid, colorful, imagery-rich descriptions of commercial perfumes. They should let this guy loose on restaurants – he’d make a killer reviewer. I read Burr’s previous book, The Emperor of Scent, and was dazzled by that story, a review of contemporary attempts to explain how we smell things, the last of our senses to be scientifically explored. We know how we see, we know how we hear, but, in truth, we haven’t got a fucking clue how we smell things! Now comes Burr’s best work, a stunning overview of the commercial perfume industry – The Perfect Scent (Henry Holt & Co.). This is the story of how Coty launched Sarah Jessica Parker’s perfume, Lovely, and how, at the same time, Hermes launched Un Jardin Sur le Nil – both told from Burr’s insider vantage. Both large commercial houses let Burr sit in on ALL aspects of the development of these perfumes. There are tons of wonderful, gossipy elements, scientific explanations of how they make perfume, gorgeous descriptive paragraphs in which Burr disses many popular perfumes. An example? “Yves Saint Laurent poured a river of money into launching M7, created by the star perfumers Alberto Morrilas and Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich. M7 smells like a Fiat engine engulfed in flame on a shoulder of the A6, an alarming chemical storm of burned rubber, charred metal, torched leather and toxic melting polycarbon. This is not necessarily a criticism; it was a well constructed, thoughtfully built scorched car in flames. But people stayed away by the million, and the scent was a disaster.” If you love good writing, have an interest in food or the industry that propels it to your table, this book is a good corollary backgrounder. For many of the firms, which I have hired to flavor the 8,000 food products that I have brought to market, are the same ones (IFF, Givaudan, etc.) that scent the perfumes that whisper behind your ear. And much of the way they invent new perfumes is how we invent new food products – often with more concern for the packaging than for the product, which goes into it. The Perfect Scent is a wonderful, entertaining, richly written book. I can’t recommend it enough. (*****)
  • Richard Preston: The Wild Trees
    Half of all the living species in nature are unknown -- and even more bizarre, they live in forest canopies hundreds of feet above the earth in the planet's tallest trees, according to non-fiction writer Richard Preston. I have read everything Preston, who is a regular contributor to The New Yorker, has written, including The Hot Zone (about the Ebola virus scare...), for which he is probably best known. But in reality, his best works may be his two earliest; I LOVED his account of the Hale Observatory in First Light, and his take on Nuco Steel, in the book American Steel, was a classic. Preston's new book, The Wild Trees, is a perhaps too-detailed, but very compelling look, at the ecosystems abundant in the verdant, earth-filled canopies that are 200+ feet off the ground in the majestic redwoods of northern California. This is NOT one of those anti-logging treatises but, instead, is a positive spin on how fragile, how vital and how important is the biodiversity of the towering redwoods. Preston micro-paints his lead protagonists in such fine detail that we learn extremely intimate details of their lives and you find yourself asking, "How the hell did he get THAT piece of information out of the subject?" If you're into botany, biology, or Richard Preston as a writer, this book is a must-read. If you're interested in well-crafted sentences, colorful writing, or have a basic interest in tree hugging, this book could be for you, too!
  • Elizabeth Gilbert: Eat, Pray, Love
    Everyone around me was reading this book - my good friend Richard, my wife, our friend Wendy - so I picked up a copy. And couldn't put it down. This is a must-read diary of a woman who left her husband, her lover and her life in New York and hit the road for a year, one third of it spent in each of Italy, India and Indonesia. It has food, philosophy, laughs, and a textural richness not often found in non-fiction. Each one of us, hooked on this book, read the last third more slowyly than the first; we didn't want this search-for-self saga to end. (*****)
  • Bill Buford: Heat
    A compelling, and fabulously written, book about Mario Batali. The writing is as colorful as the chef. (*****)
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March 13, 2008

Oxbow Public Market – Top New Attraction in Napa Valley!

For years, Napkins (the residents of Napa, as I like to call them) have drooled when they visit San Francisco’s famed (and did I say Wonderful?) Ferry Building Marketplace on the Embarcadero.

Well, they’re not drooling any more. The same mind that brought life, artisans, chocolate, a wine bar, caviar, oysters and a bookstore to the revitalized Ferry Building in San Francisco has done it again, this time in the town of Napa.

That mind, by the way, belongs to Napa Valley resident Steve Carlin.

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Steve Carlin, the spirit, brains and brawn behind Oxbow Public Market

At the turn of the year, Steve, who is founder and CEO of Oxbow Public Market, along with a small team of smart guys and smart money, opened the Oxbow Public Market on a bend in the Napa River beside COPIA (the American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts). The team dreamed up, built and populated the property over a two-year period. Total cost to open the doors? About $11 million, a sneeze compared to the near $70 million that was needed to open the doors at COPIA next door.

Hallelujah! The still-in-its-infancy Oxbow Public Market is a charmer, a disarmer, a welcome divertissement for downtown Napa. EVERY SINGLE TOURIST WHO READS THIS MUST ADD A PIT STOP AT OXBOW MARKET TO HIS/HER “EATINERARY” OF NAPA VALLEY.

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Oxbow Market is a collection of (eventually) 14 interior stalls and five exterior, or adjacent, businesses supplying mostly local, mostly organic, mostly sustainably produced foods. The good stuff, the tasty stuff, for visitors and locals alike.

Carlin has said that his goal was to recreate, albeit on a more compact scale, the great markets of North America – San Francisco’s Ferry Building, Seattle’s Pike Place and Vancouver’s Granville Island. A month after the formal opening, I’d say he’s succeeded beyond anyone’s expectations, certainly mine.

Oxbow Public Market is a statement about tasty, sustainable, mostly organic foods, it’s about locally grown produce (farmers in outdoor stalls complete the interior stall offerings) and about Bay-area- and Napa Valley-based artisans selling what they make, treasure, or revere. I guess you could summarize and say, above all, it’s a Place about Passion.

About Oxbow Public Market

The 40,000-square-foot marketplace, which includes a scenic outdoor deck with seating along the Napa River, is open seven days a week, 10 to 7 pm weekdays, 9 to 6 pm Saturday and 10 to 5 pm Sunday.

Currently open at the Market

The smartest way to review the stalls and stores at Oxbow is to group them geographically.

While Oxbow is small, you’ll want to stay for a bite, meander through the various stalls and generally lose yourself in sensual pleasures – food, wine, chocolate, tea, coffee, cheese and ice cream. So plan on spending a few hours at the very least.

To help plan your visit, here’s an overview of what’s at the market on a geographic, not alphabetic, basis:

Stalls on the west side of the Market

Pica Pica Maize Kitchen

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Arepas, which are grilled white corn flour flatbreads, are the national food of Venezuela. And given their popularity at Pica Pica, and the line-ups they create, they could soon become the national dish of Napa.

Adriana Lopez Vermut and her family, who run a number of restaurants in Caracas, decided to take the plunge and open the first restaurant in North America serving arepas, and their sweet culinary counterpart, cachapas. For the record: both are made daily on site from corn flour and both are wheat- and gluten-free.

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Luis Sosa, general manager of Pica Pica, presents a breakfast cachapa filled with cheese and ham. For the record, Pica Pica means “magpie” – the bird.

Arepas can be lined with ten different protein, or fruit, fillings, including chicken salad, skirt steak, black beans, tofu and plantains, cheese and ham, or even a poached egg.

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What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
A Pepeada arepa, which is a freshly pressed corn cake heated on a griddle, sliced and filled with a chicken and avocado mixture seasoned with cumin, garlic, and Serrano chile. $7.25.


Fête

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For those who don’t speak French, fête is both a verb and a noun, meaning “to celebrate,” or it’s the event itself, a celebration.

And what a fête this stall is, filled with charming accessories for home entertainment. Need to pamper yourself, or find a killer hostess gift? You’re likely to find it here. Consider: Heath ceramics from nearby Sausalito, or a set of exquisite Laguiole cheese knives. Maybe madame would be interested in a stunning argent (silver) tray from Argentina… or some gorgeous hand-etched Venetian glassware? Or consider fine table linens from France and Italy…?

Shop owner Jackie Caldwell-Rhoades advises customers to “buy once, and buy well,” because you will keep the items that you acquire here for a long, long time. There is something timelessly elegant about the items she selects to sell.

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What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
It’s difficult to identify one thing that fits all needs, or all homes, so Fête manager Kathleen de Vries suggests “the elegant paper celebration crowns,” which can be worn at parties, or dinners by the celebrant of the event, the person having a birthday, or who is celebrating a major achievement. $16 a crown.


Five Dot Ranch

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When the butcher at the stall of Five Dot Ranch tells you the family history, it makes you think of Ben Cartwright and his sons on the Ponderosa.

Five Dot is a seventh generation cattle ranch run by the Swickard family, today based in Susanville, Lassen County, CA.

The original brothers, so the story goes, called themselves “dots,” for no apparent reason. Hence the origin of the ranch’s name.

Folklore aside, what Five Dot brings to Oxbow is 100% northern California beef from Napa, Solano and Sonoma counties. The cattle are range-fed and all-natural, free of hormones and antibiotics. All the beef, with the exception of thin cuts like flank, hanger, and skirt steaks, is dry-aged 21 days.

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Richard Barlow, a master butcher who has been in the meat and restaurant business for 35 years, came out of retirement to “have some fun” and work at the Five Dot stall. “This is by far the best beef that I have ever eaten!” he says. He’s holding what he says is his tastiest steak – a well-marbled, dry-aged, rib-eye.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
The 21-day dry-aged, heavily marbled rib-eye steak at $22.95/pound. “It’s one of the best pieces of steak you will ever eat!” says butcher Richard Barlow.


Three Twins Organic Ice Cream

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This two-year-old, novel ice cream company, based in San Rafael, makes organic ice cream in flavors and colors as original as the story behind the venture.

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Neal Gottleib, returning from a Peace Corps assignment in Morocco, moved in with his twin brother, Carl, and Carl’s then-fiance Liz, herself a twin. Neil started referring to the threesome as “The Three Twins,” and when he later decided to start America’s first organic ice cream chain, that’s the moniker he applied to the enterprise.

A dozen different organic ice creams are offered daily, though there is seasonal rotation coming from a total selection of some 30 flavors. All inclusions are also organic – the cookies and fruit snippets. The waffle cones, too, are organic, made, as you watch, on a small kitchen-sized waffle griddle that sits upon the counter.

I love the playfulness of the stall at Oxbow, the whacko signs and the inventive overhead conveyor contraption.

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But I also love the ice cream and what Neil is attempting to do. By this summer, Neil intends to move his ice cream-making operation from San Rafael to Oxbow.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
Dad’s Cardamom Ice Cream. Why? For one thing, it’s totally different than all other commercial ice creams. It’s a very clean, delicate tasting vanilla that is scented almost more than being flavored with freshly ground cardamom, which Neil gets from his neighboring Oxbow stall, Whole Spice.
The cardamom ice cream, like all flavors, comes in a “Teensy” size for $2.25, a single scoop for $3.25… and runs on up to that $85,000 price tag on the sign above. Who ever said organic ice cream was cheap?


Heritage Culinary Artifacts

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Lisa Minucci, the owner of this sweet stall, must have a screw loose. Or, at the very least, a corkscrew loose.

Lisa, who was sommelier at the very popular Martini House, in St. Helena, decided to sidestep her career and start something new. Now, in addition to writing a newsletter for sommeliers, Lisa hunts down wonderfully whimsical vintage farm signs and antique kitchen implements on her travels and then offers them for sale at her Oxbow stall.

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Looking for an unusual gift? How about a heritage corkscrew, a weird bottle opener, a well-used serving utensil, or culinary curio? Chances are you’ll find something at Lisa’s Heritage stall.

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What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
Not really a valid question here as there is total rotation of inventory and no two pieces are alike. This is one of those times when the answer to this common question is probably “everything!”


Whole Spice

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Talk about a real mom and pop shop – this is it! Ronit (mom) and Shuli (pop) Madmone are taking their first gamble at retailing by bringing their exquisite line of freshly ground spices to the Oxbow Market.

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Shuli Madmone opened Whole Spice with his wife, Ronit.

Shuli, who grew up in a family of spice traders, grinds and blends his spices in nearby Petaluma and offers about 300 different spices and 50 proprietary blends at his Oxbow stall.

Looking for paprika? Shuli has five different types including Hungarian, Spanish, Israeli, a smoked paprikash and a sweet paprikash.

Looking for salt? Look no further. Shuli has 12 different kinds including gray, pink, smoked, Hawaiian gold, and Hawaiian black.

Want to turn that cup of black coffee into something exotic with no added calories? Add ¼ teaspoon per cup of Shuli’s Hawaj blend, a tasty chai equivalent for java consisting of ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom.

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Whole Spice offers 300 spices in bulk, or pre-packaged in jars.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
Zhug, a fiery Yemeni blend of tianjin chile, garlic, coriander, cloves, cilantro, salt and cardamom, which is to be sprinkled over salads, fish, soup or grilled meats. A 50 gram packet of zhug is $5.50.


Stalls on the east side of the Market

Anette's Chocolate Factory

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Shopkeeper Lisa Pike helps customers sort through snack options – beer brittle, chocolate truffles, or ice cream toppings, what’s it gonna be?

For 17 years, sister and brother Anette and Brent Madsen, have been making chocolates down the block on 1st Street. You see their tasty Beer Brittle and assorted line extensions (Fiery Beer Brittle, Wine Brittle, Kentucky Bourbon Brittle) all over town in independent grocery stores. The couple figured they needed to reach out to the 4 million visitors we attract in Napa Valley, many of whom will make the pilgrimage to Oxbow Public Market.

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What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
Beer Brittle. It has a playful yin-yang flavor thing going on with salt and sugar duking it out on your palate for dominance, and there’s a pleasing peanut-y finish, which draws you back for more. $9.95 for a half-pound bag.


Kitchen Library

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Photographer Steven Rothfeld, many of whose books grace my shelves (he shoots the photography for Patricia Wells’ cookbooks, and I have long treasured a book that he did on French signs called Entrez, which I bought long before I ever met Steven) decided he needed more mishagas in his life; so he opened a very personal, tiny stall, offering books, curios, culinary and stationery accessories, which he personally loves. If an item is sitting on Steven’s table, it has his personal endorsement of being wonderful, unique, and ownership-worthy.

Steven also sells prints and images – of his own work and of others – and has lots of hand-made things, which you won’t find at other retail stores.

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Steven Rothfeld.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
“That’s like asking me which of my children do I like more, or which book that I have produced do I like more?” says Steven, responding to the common question.
“I’ve chosen every single thing in the store for a personal reason. These are things I love and live with.”


Folio Enoteca and Winery

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What a claim to fame – the smallest bonded commercial winery in America! The man behind the concept is Michael Mondavi, whose family ran one of the largest wineries in the country. Michael, whose gone from big to small, actually makes wine on site and, as well, serves a number of brands from his Folio portfolio.

Oh yeah, and there’s great food, too.

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Gregg Lamer, manager at Folio, says that they make more than 1,000 cases per year of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc in the 80 square feet devoted to winemaking on site. That’s a neat trick - like displaying all of Imelda Marcos’ shoes in a phone booth!

At Folio, you can sip through different flights of wine, or order a glass, or bottle, of the wines made by Michael Mondavi’s family -- I’M, Hangtime, or Oberon. Better yet, marry them to tasty offerings created by one of my favorite Napa Valley chefs, Sarah Scott. I’ve long encouraged Sarah to go out on her own to start her own restaurant; until she does, this is one of the few spots in the valley where you can taste her splendid work.

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Sarah Scott, executive at Folio Enoteca.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
A Past (04), Present (05), and Future (06 – from barrel) flight of Oberon Cabernet Sauvignon, $12, with a side of Sarah’s scrumptious, southern-style, 3-cheese, Mac & Cheese, $5.


Tillerman Tea

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David Campbell, former CEO of a popular Stags Leap District winery, decided to follow his passion, which was his second favorite beverage – tea.

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David Campbell, founder of Tillerman Tea.

Last year, David left the wine world and started Tillerman Tea, sourcing more than 35 whole-leaf teas through the entire color/flavor spectrum – white, green and black. The teas are sourced in China and Taiwan, some are sold loose, others are encased in silken sachets.

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At the Oxbow tasting bar, five organic house teas are poured free daily. David Wong, who has the formal title “director of tea culture and education,” will graciously lead you through your tasting, which you will find as detailed as any tasting you may have had at a local winery.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
“Chen Huan Tang is a tea master from Taiwan, one of the world’s great tea specialists,” says David Campbell with reverence. “We offer his Alishan Oolong tea, which looks peculiar but which has an exceptional taste.”
After the leaves of this tea are oxidized and roasted, they are dumped into large muslin sacks, which are rolled by hand, forcing the leaves inside to curl into small clumpy balls that look a bit like green nasturtium buds. In a way, the Alishan Oolong resembles wet clumps of grass that have been scraped off the blades of a lawn mower used on a dew-stained lawn and left to dry. They’re that shade of green. Anyway, when you add water, the curled-up balls relax, swell and release their tasty tannins. $11.50 per 25 grams, which will make at least 20 cups of tea.


Rôtisario

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Perhaps you have been to France and seen those rotisserie trucks roll up to a local farmer’s market and wondered aloud, as I have, “why hasn’t anyone brought these trucks to America?”

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Thomas Odermatt, “The Prince of Chicken,” as he is now called, sends his chicken rotisserie trucks to 25 Bay-area farmers’ markets weekly during the warmer months.

Thomas Odermatt must have been standing beside me and heard me speaking to myself, because in 2002, the Swiss-born, son of a master butcher founded his Bay-area business RoliRoti. You have likely seen Thomas’ trucks parked at the Ferry Building Farmers Market or have seen them roll up to most other weekly Bay-area farmers markets. They’re the trucks with an open side of juicy, turning, “rotisserizing” Fulton Valley free-range chickens.

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Now Thomas has brought his clever rotisserie system to Oxbow Market, opening his first land-based, chicken-on-wheels business, but without the wheels.

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Come and get it! Thomas says this Fulton Valley chicken is perfectly cooked. The potatoes he offers are cooked in the hot natural fat that drips off the rotisserie’d chickens onto the spuds below.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
The signature dish; the Rôtisario Chicken Plate for $9.50, which includes your choice of white or dark meat (but not both), a green salad with leafy organic greens, and roasted potatoes richly flavored with chicken juices.


The Olive Press

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When we first moved to Napa Valley in 1997, once of the first things we did was to harvest our olives and make oil. As we had a rather small crop, we sought out a competent source to help us custom crush and in the process were introduced to The Olive Press, then located in Glen Ellen.

It was a tiny operation then, staffed by a few knowledgeable people. Today, the business has moved to a new building on the property of the Jacuzzi Family Winery on Arnold Drive (Hwy 121) and now it’s staffed by a lot of knowledgeable people.

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Coming east to Napa County, and shedding their Sonoma-only presence, The Olive Press offers Oxbow Public Market visitors a chance to taste through seven different olive oils (some are flavored, some are blends, some are varietals).

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On any day, you can taste through a selection of four different olive oils, three proprietary blends and three fruit-flavored olive oils. The tasting is free.

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Not down a quart of oil? Looking for olives instead? Shopkeeper Cynthia Morgan is happy to walk you through a selection of cured olives.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
Arbequina olive oil, pressed from those little brownish olives that are often put out in Italian restaurants. “I like the flavor of this oil,” says shopkeeper Cynthia Morgan, “it’s not too strong, not too mild.” A sort of Goldilocks of oil, if you permit, not too big, not too little. Just right. $26/500 mL bottle.


Exterior/adjacent retailers


The Oxbow Wine Merchant and Wine Bar

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It’s the best – if not longest – honkin’ wine bar in Napa Valley. I love the thick, 70-running feet of white oak, cut from a single 100-year-old tree; I love what they serve on top of it, too. Great food and great wines in tasting flights. And like those at an airport – these are flights you do not want to miss!

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The menu changes regularly and seasonally as do the wines, so without being specific to the image above, just understand that the three amigos who run this place (and the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, as well), inherently nail the food/wine pairing in spades. Choose a platter of cheeses, nuts and fruit and you will be amply rewarded with a flight of wines suggested by the barkeep.

It’s hard to imagine that you are in Napa Valley and have run out of wine, but let’s pretend that you have. Your cellar is bare. So you head to the Oxbow Wine Merchant and ask them to fill up your fridge, your pantry, your cellar, and maybe your garage, too. Because they can; they stock more than 1,000 different wines, every one of which staff members have tasted and know. It is from this inventory that the flights and by-the-glass wines originate.

The Wine Merchant hasn’t been open a month and already weekend nights are starting to be THE meeting place in Napa town; you may have thought that Five Dot Ranch, next door, was THE place to go for alluring meat… but on Friday night, that bulls-eye moves west about 20 feet… to the Wine Merchant Bar.

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The amazing smoked salmon BLT on Model Bakery whole-wheat.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
The signature sandwich, which can be paired with a flight of tasty Pinot Noirs, is the Smoked Salmon BLT (pictured above). Here’s a generous mound of smoked salmon, apple wood-smoked bacon, lettuce and tomato, sandwiched between toasted slices of Model Bakery whole-wheat, which have been brushed with a zippy pesto mayo. $12 for the sandwich, wine flight extra.


The Oxbow Cheese Merchant


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Riccardo Huijon, Melissa Crosby and Lassa Skinner, the cheery cheese mongers who will greet you in the northwest corner of the Oxbow Wine Bar.

The owners of the wine bar also decided to offer a small selection of retail cheeses. They pulled in some serious talent, cheese mongers who know cheese the way the guys behind the bar know their wines; and they encouraged them to purchase more than 100 different cheeses from around the world. Their personal favorites, stuff that is seasonal, sensational, sensual.

It is good to finally catch up, by the way, with Riccardo Huijon, who disappeared off the radar screen at Dean & DeLuca, where I used to patiently wait in line for his attentive, enthusiastic, cheese service. Now he’s at Oxbow Cheese, inside the structure that houses the Wine Bar.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
The three cheese mongers said that it was really difficult to name just ONE cheese to answer this question, but in the interest of identifying one cheese out of a hundred that they would suggest to customers, they named Goat’s Leap as THE cheese to try. This is the only cheese made in Napa Valley, produced in St. Helena. I love the creamy, goat-y, rich and balanced taste of this fromage, an equal to many of the French goat cheeses you have tasted in your life.


Taylor's Automatic Refresher

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Rare, rare, rare, like the ahi tuna they serve here; you are not likely to ever see this sight in your lifetime – NO lineup at Taylors! This is what the Oxbow location looks like one minute after they open the doors. By two minutes, you’ll feel like you’re in Disneyworld during spring break, it can get that crowded.

One of Napa Valley’s original food concessions is on a tear. After the Gott family took over Taylor’s Refresher about eight years ago in St. Helena, they built a satellite location at the San Francisco Ferry Building. The two locations vie for which one has the longer line-ups for burgers, a killer ahi tuna sandwich, and the best milkshakes this side of the Rockies (Do Not Pass Go, Do Not Collect $200, Do not do anything else until you have had Taylor’s espresso bean milkshake; that’s not a suggestion – that an order!).

Now there’s a third, new location – at the Oxbow Public Market and who’s surprised? The line-ups are just as long here! The public has an unquenchable hunger for good, inexpensive food, beer and wine, and Taylor’s fills this need.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
We send all our visitors from out of town to the original Taylor’s location in St. Helena, which is closer to our home. The signature dish and signature beverage are: Seared rare Ahi tuna filet with ginger wasabi mayo and Asian slaw on a toasted egg bun. $13.99. The signature beverage is the espresso bean milkshake, described above, and large enough for two to share. $4.99.


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Just west of the Oxbow Market, yet still part of it, are two retail stores that must not be overlooked – The Model Bakery and The Fatted Calf.


The Model Bakery

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This will give you some idea of the selection of baked goods they make…

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… and of the tasty breads, too, which rival the best made anywhere in the Bay-area.

One of my favorite pit-stops in St. Helena, after I finish my morning exercise, is at The Model Bakery on Main St., where they serve a mean Peet’s latte and some of the tastiest baked goods in Napa Valley.

Under the direction of Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen (mother and daughter team), The Model Bakery is turning out hearty country breads that are in the league of those baked by Steve Sullivan at Acme Bread in Berkeley, or of those baked by Thomas Keller’s crew at Bouchon Bakery in Yountville. Many Model breads even surpass these exalted benchmarks.

The Model breads are exciting, crusty, they are breads with superb “crumb” as the soft center is called. There are times at home, when we have a slice of the pain au levain, that we recall that in all the dinners in France on our last trip, we didn’t have a bread as good, as crusty, as memorable as the Model pain au levain. Hats off to Karen and Sarah and to their new wizard head baker, Philippe Garcia.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
Karen Mitchell has a hard time identifying the one thing you have to try; “I’d say try any of the breads made with organic flour – we’re making baguettes, boules, batards, probably 20 different breads. We bake seven days a week; there has never been a bakery in the town of Napa offering this quality, or freshness, of breads.”
And just when I thought this was her choice for “must-try,” she hmmmmed out loud to herself and added, “but maybe I should say the “must-try” is a freshly baked English muffin, which we serve for breakfast, filled with fresh scrambled eggs, Tillamook Cheddar and lean Canadian bacon. (NY chef) Mario Batali ordered a few dozen at Christmas, claiming that he’d heard these were the best English muffins in America.”


The Fatted Calf

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Sunlight glares off the refrigerated display case at The Fatted Calf – but that’s not all that glares here; there is a glaring fact that you are in the presence of some very knowledgeable, very dedicated, very caring charcuteristes.

Remember the names Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller. Yes, they are uncommon names but then, this husband and wife team have an uncommon profession – they are serious charcuteristes in a country that is obsessed with leanness, diet, and avoidance of fat.

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That’s Toponia above, displaying a tray of just-made crepinettes an artisanal sausage – hand-pattied, wrapped in pork caul. It is a fabulous forcemeat of rabbit, lamb, walnuts, shallots and herbs that are hand-slapped into patties.

Taylor and Toponia met at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America), in Hyde Park, NY, and decided to move west for adventure. Toponia became chef at San Francisco’s MOMA (Museum of Modern Art) and Taylor oversaw meat sales at the Meat Market at Café Rouge, in Berkeley. They knew that one day, they would make their own line of sausages, and when Steve Carlin came a’callin’ (or in their case, a’caulin’), they rose to the self-imposed challenge.

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Sausage maker Antonio Jeronimo smiles, having just made two types of small salami. The meats, pates, terrines, and sausages change daily at The Fatted Calf.

What’s the one thing you insist visitors try when they ask, “What’s special?”
We let Toponia off the hook on this question, for like a few other merchants at Oxbow, she answered that it would be impossible to single out just one of her artisanal products.
“Today I might say that THE thing to try is our terrine forestiere, made with rabbit, duck and black trumpet mushrooms, but tomorrow it could be one of 30 other sausages that we make – like our summer Basque Sausage, which is ideal for grilling.”

Opening in late Spring:

Kanaloa Seafood

A full-service seafood purveyor that will provide premium-quality shellfish and locally caught fish.

Ritual Coffee Roasters

Many say Ritual makes the best coffee in San Francisco. We’ll find out just how good it is when the Mission district coffee purveyor opens at Oxbow.

Opening in early Fall:

Hog Island Oyster Company

Modeled after its oyster bar at the San Francisco Ferry Building, Hog Island Oxbow will serve premium-quality, fresh-raised oysters on the half-shell, as well as baked oyster classics, organic salads and a daily changing seafood entrée.


For further information on any of the merchants above, contact Oxbow Public Market at 707-226-6529, or visit the website at: www.oxbowpublicmarket.com.


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Comments

So nice to see such a glowing description of Sarah Scott. Wondered what she's been up to, as she is my husband's cousin. Thanks for the info and a really great article!

-- Laurie LaGrone

Hi NapaMan,

My name is Shannon and I'm the editorial assistant at Foodbuzz.com. I am very impressed with the quality of your posts and to that end, I’d like to invite you to be a part of our newly launched Foodbuzz Featured Publisher program. I would love to send you more details about the program, so if you are interested, please email me at Shannon@foodbuzz.com.
Wow, the market looks amazing. I don't know if the Ferry Building can even compare!

Cheers!

Shannon Eliot
Editorial Assistant, Foodbuzz.com
shannon@foodbuzz.com

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